Exotic Pet Care

About

About Me

Reptile hobbyist and breeder, keeper for 10 years. I currently have over 60 animals, 24 reptiles, 11 amphibians, 6 invertebrates, 19 fish, and 4 mammals, along with feeder farms.

I am a foster family for Slimy Scaly Taily Reptile Rescue in Pennsylvania.

Tips to Give Your Reptile the Best Life Possible!

Commonly Asked Questions Answered Here!

1. Am I ready to own a reptile?

Note: If you say no to any of these questions, I'd consider looking into a different pet that will best fit your lifestyle or working on being able to say yes to all of these questions.

Do I have the space?

Most reptiles will require a 20 gallon tank or more.

Can I handle the diet?

Some reptiles (snakes, monitors, etc.) need to eat mice or larger mammals while some need live insects and then there are some that are omnivorous and need a fruit mixture (Pangea) and insects and there are a few that are complete vegetarians.

Do I have enough money to handle the supplies?

This will include the tank, heating source (if necessary), hides, water and food dishes (if necessary), decor, substrate, and additional items.

Do I have enough money for vet bills?

Reptile/Exotics vets can cost anywhere from $60-200+ and it's best to have this saved before hand just in case. Wild caught and rescue animals absolutely need to see a vet when you first get them to ensure everything is healthy and see if you need to get any special medication for them.

Have you done research on the reptile you are choosing?

Have you looked at care sheets and asked owners/breeders about their care, tips, and tricks? Have you asked your local exotics/reptile vet about the species?

2. Use paper towels for quarantine!

This will help you make sure your new reptile is healthy by easily seeing urine and poop and seeing any possible parasites(very common in wild caught reptiles).

Note: Some reptiles need a substrate so they don't get stressed. (Sandfish Skink & Peter's Banded Skink).

4. Sand is not terrible!

Now understand that just plain sand should never be used for animals that come from a arid (Leopard Geckos, Bearded Dragons, etc.) or tropical (Anoles, Long Tailed Lizards, etc.) environment and it is not correct for them.

However, some reptiles need sand (Sandfish skink, Peter's Banded Skink, etc.) to make them feel safe as they are burrowers and true desert animals.

Make sure that if you have an animal that need sand to use safe sand (Reptisand or Children's Playsand). Do not use colored sand, calcium sand, or vita sand.

Note: Playsand can be used in bioactive environments!

7. Are dubia roaches illegal?

In some states and countries, dubia roaches can be illegal! But not to worry, there are other options like discoid roaches and red runner roaches! If you just simply cannot get roaches, crickets are your next best option!

9. What is impaction?

Impaction is when a reptile gets substrate or food stuck in their stomach and cannot digest it, therefore disabling their ability to poop and resulting in most cases, death.

Note: Impaction is caused by improper husbandry (most likely not enough heat) not the substrate.

Note: If you believe your reptile is impacted take it to see an exotics vet immediately!

12. Can I housed these reptiles together?

Most likely the answer is no. There are very few reptiles that can live together safely. Many reptiles are housed together even though they can lose their lives because of it (Leopard Geckos, Crested Geckos, Bearded Dragons, etc.).

10. Should I use a UVB light?

Yes! You don't have to but it's much better for your reptile! Without some form of UVB they can develop metabolic bone disease (MBD).

Note: Use a striplight bulb not a coil bulb for proper UVB distribution and to avoid UVB burns.

13. Should I rescue a animal in bad conditions?

While you may want to rescue that animal you see in bad care, sometimes it's better not to. If you jump into rescuing an animal then realize that you can't care for it, then it's not really rescuing it. Before you rescue, make sure you can properly take care of it and can afford the vet bills as it will need to go to the vet right away.

3. Go Bioactive!

Using a bioactive substrate will help you keep your tank clean and it is much more natural and enriching for your reptile than substrates they sell at pet stores (reptile carpet). The bioactive substrate if done correctly will also help live plants grow! Make sure to include a clean up crew (CUC) otherwise it's not fully bioactive! A CUC consists of isopods(these go by several different names), springtails, darkling beetles, dubia roaches, and more depending on the type of enrivonment you are setting up for!

5. Know which foods are safe and which are not!

Remember that just like people, there are bad/unhealthy foods for reptiles!

There are also foods that are bad if given too often or in large portions. Moderation is key!

Note: Proper diet differs between all reptiles!

6. Using waxworms to fatten a reptile up?

No! Waxworms are very fatty and if given too much or in large portions it can send your reptile into liver failure!

If you have a skinny reptile that needs to gain weight, feed a regular healthy diet of dubia roaches and/or crickets. (Make sure you see a vet as well as it could be a illness making them skinny)

8. Dangers of mealworms as a main diet?

If mealworms are used as a main diet, your reptile is more likely to get impacted because the exoskeleton of a mealworm is difficult for them to digest. Mealworms also aren't very healthy due to how high in chitin they are.

Note: Feeding mealworms occasionally is completely fine, just don't use them as a main diet.

11. What is MBD?

MBD, also known as metabolic bone disease, is when your reptile doesn't get enough D3 so their bones become underdeveloped and can result in serious problem if not helped/fixed right away. Some reptiles need to be hand fed due to MBD because they cannot catch food themselves. Some also need their tank to be modified because they cannot walk correctly.

14. Rescuing from Petsmart/Petco?

Keep in mind that when you are "rescuing" from these stores that if you are giving them money you are just supporting the business, a new animal has to take that ones place.

Instead try bargaining to get the animal for free by pointing out how it needs to see a vet as it's showings signs of ______. This way they are losing a profit from that animal.

15. I found a reptile/amphibian outside, can I keep it?

Most likely, no. In most states it is illegal to take native reptiles/amphibians.

However if it is a non-native reptile/amphibian and you can take care of it, then yes! Especially in places like Florida, where they are being overpopulated by invasive species, they will often be happy that you took a non-native species from the area.

Note: All wild caught animals will need to be both quarantined and taken to a vet and they will most likely have parasites.

16. What is impulse buying?

Impulse buying is when a person buys an animal because they think it is cute, they want/"need" it, or want to "save" it but then they cannot care for it or have not done enough research and end up giving it improper care.

17. Does UVB give them heat?

No! UVB lighting doesn't give off any heat and will not keep your animal warm.

If your animal needs heat then invest in whichever heating source is best for them (heat lamp, ceramic heat emitter, under tank heater).

18. Why Should I give my reptile/amphibian a UVB light?

Providing a UVB light will help prevent MBD and other calcium deficiency issues. You also won't have to dust food with calcium with D3, only with vitamins and calcium without D3.

20. What products should you NEVER buy for a reptile/amphibian and why?

Heat rocks- These heat up irregularry and will burn your reptile/amphibian
Calcium/Vita/Colored Sand- Calcium and vita sand are one of the leading causes of impaction because reptiles/amphibians can't digest it. Colored sand should never be used because it can stain your reptile/amphibian.
Reptished Aid- The oils harm their natural oils and some animals have even died after being exposed!
Crushed Walnut Shells- These are extremely sharp and if ingested can tear the stomach lining of your reptile.
Dried insects/most canned or food in a jar (besides Repashy and Pangea)- These foods have little to no nutritional value and will not keep your animal well fed and healthy.
Analog Thermometers/Hydrometers- These are inaccurate and unreliable.
Hides with sharp edges- These can injure your reptile.
Colored Heat Lamps- These irritate reptiles/amphibians eyes.
Night Heat Lamps- These disturb your reptiles sleep cycle as they can see the light. If you need to keep temps up during the night use a ceramic heat emitter as they don't give off any light, only heat.
Open-Ended Hides (Hides with no backs)- These don't make the reptile/amphibian feel safe which will stress them.
Coil UVB Lights- These don't distribute UVB lighting properly. A UVB striplight will benefit your reptile/amphibian much more.

19. Digital vs. Analog Thermometers/Hydrometers

When checking the temperature and humidity in your animal's home, you want to be as accurate as possible, which is why you'll want to invest in a digital thermometer and hydrometer. The analog thermometers and hydrometers tend to be inaccurate which will make you believe your hot spot is warmer or colder than it is and your humidity could be off by a certain percentage.

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